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Beauty and Main

Makeup Questions

It seems like one of the big trends this spring is “day glow” colors on the face. How am I expected to pull that off?

Personally I am of the philosophy that we should take our inspirations from the runway and the magazines; not entire looks. That way you also can maintain your individuality and not look like someone who is just jumping on the bandwagon. 

In regards to the “day glow” trend, I think there are two major considerations. First would be that there is a time and a place for everything, and this trend is probably best not brought to the office. So if you work for a law firm, or are a CPA, keep the matte fuchsia lipstick at home. Which brings me to the next consideration; texture. If you are wearing an incredibly vibrant color and are not a member of Cirque de Soleil  or in the cast of Hairspray keep the texture sheer. A bright pink or orange can be really flattering on most skin tones if kept sheer. Try a lip gloss or a soft creamy blush.

Here are some of the vibrant goodies I like to use on my clients.

From Trish McEvoy-Tropical Nude Lip Gloss, and Peony Blush

From Laura Mercier- Miami Pink Lip Glace, and Pink Grapefruit Lip Plumper

From Nars- Cactus Flower Cream Blush, Hot Wired and Capucine Lip Laquers

And for your toes, Lippman Collection-Makin’ Whoopie Nail Color.

When applying these colors keep the lines soft. This is not the time for geometric angles. I would even suggest trying applying with your fingers to keep things “soft focus”. And as always, LESS is MORE. This is not a look to pair with heavy foundation and eyeliner. Little blush, little gloss, concealer where you need it, maybe a coat of black mascara, and your done.

I am 14 and going to a fancy party. What kind of makeup should I wear?

Makeup is a lot of fun. I am the first to say that. But I also heartily believe that less is more. This is even more true for young women. When teenagers wear heavy makeup, they don't appear more mature. They actually look even younger, kind of like a kitten trying to walk like a cat. Embrace where you are in life. 70 year old women should not try to dress like 16 year olds. And 14 year olds should not wear the same makeup that a 30 year old would. So when a young woman asks for makeup advice, my best advice is keep it simple, keep it light. And if anyone is complimenting your makeup (ie. Wow, pretty eye shadow!) you have too much on. They should be saying how pretty YOU look.

If you are going to apply some makeup, do this; 

Look in the mirror, standing a reasonable distance (not an inch away!) from the mirror. Cover up any spots or dark under eye circles with a tiny bit of concealer. Blend well. Then take a pale shimmery eye shadow in a beige or rose hue and dust lash line to eye brow. Curl your eye lashes and apply a coat of black (or dark brown if you are very fair) mascara to your upper eye lashes (one coat is plenty). Apply a pink or rose colored cream blush to the apples of your cheeks, again, blend  well. Then pick a pretty lip gloss. Everyone is beautiful in lip gloss! And you are ready to go.

This is all of course under the assumption that you have made sure it is okay with your mom. Time really does fly, so if your mom tells you to wait, wait. Before you know it, you will be telling your daughter to wait too! 

And remember, you already are beautiful. Makeup is there to enhance what you already have.

I have 3 minutes (if I’m lucky) to do my makeup in the morning. What steps can I take in next to no time to look my best?

In an ideal world, we would all rise when we desired, take a leisurely shower, and set ourselves in front of our beautiful well lit vanity to apply our makeup perfectly. Of course the brushes would be cleaned immediately by your assistant. And your children who are always perfectly behaved would be discovering cold fusion in the other room and your husband would be outside building a shrine in your honor.

 HA!

Then the real world kicks in. The baby is screaming. The dishwasher is broken and the repair guy can’t get to you until next week.  Your husband just called, he is going to have to stay late at work. And brushes? Your three year old used them to paint on the wall.

Whether your life looks like the first scenario or the second, we all have times when we have no time to look pulled together, and a situation that calls for us to look like we are (pulled together, that is). There are a few things that really can make a huge difference. 

And POOF!

 You are back amongst the living!

 These quick little steps will just make you look like a well polished adult. I might suggest taking a little more time if you are getting ready for say…your wedding…or the Oscars (or maybe those are times you call me and have me do it). But if you are going to the market, or meeting with your kids teachers, this quickie technique will more than suffice!

I am a bridesmaid, and the gown does nothing for my coloring. How do I choose makeup colors to wear with my gown that will make me look pretty in this not-so-pretty dress?

I find this seems to stress a lot of women out. Here are a few tricks to help you look your best.

First and foremost if you are wearing a red or pink dress DO NOT match your lipstick or your nail color to the dress. It is a very out dated "matchy matchy" look.

If you are stuck wearing a color that really does nothing for your complexion, pick makeup colors that really enhance your skin and hair color. For instance, if you have very golden coloring and you are wearing a very blue-pink dress, the last thing you would want to do is wear makeup that matches the dress. You would look jaundiced! Instead pick beautiful skin enhancing neutral colors. I would suggest lots of bronzes and golds. They will contrast with the dress and make you look radiant.

If you are wearing something in the blue/green family, PLEASE! Step away from the blue green eyeshadow. Again none of us want to look like that picture of Aunt Agatha in 1963 with the beehive and her aqua eyeshadow. Instead perhaps wear a very dark blue eyeliner with neutral eyeshadow and perhaps a peachy pink blush and lip gloss. 

If you really strive towards gorgeous glowing skin and a neutral color palette, you can out shine any bridesmaid dress. Even a sea foam green taffeta one! 

I am over 40. I can't wear frosts! Every artist I meet keeps trying to put them on me. But I know they will enhance my wrinkles!

I hear this one soooo often! The good news is makeup has evolved quite a bit since 1984! You actually would be hard pressed to even be able to find a "frost" eyeshadow. Manufacturers heard womens cries about the unflattering frost textures and started to really refine things to a much softer, more luminescent shimmer or glow. The new textures of eyeshadows and shimmer powders now have such finely milled light reflecting pigment, that they actually will make fine lines and wrinkles less apparent!

Now this, by no means, means that you should run out and apply every shimmery shiny product you can get your hands on. As with anything else, less is more! You don't want to look like you were attacked by Hello Kitty or Rainbow Brite. And we all no that there is nothing less attractive than someone trying way too hard. But a little glow on the tops of the cheekbones or brow bones or a shimmery glossy lip will give you a soft modern radiance that will make you feel beautiful.

When a makeup artist suggests something new, don't be afraid to let them try it on you. Worst case scenario; you don't like it. Ask them to try something else. And at least you get to experience a different look. Trying new textures and colors ensures that we don't get stuck in a beauty rut. And being over forty is way too young to hit the pause button on your beauty regime.

So have fun shimmering and shining. And go try something new and exciting!

I have been diligently wearing my sunscreen. But now my face and body are two different colors! What do I do?

I am thrilled to hear that more and more people are wearing sunscreen! And hopefully it is a high SPF. This time of year I too often look like someone stuck the wrong head on the wrong body. While I wear a high SPF on my body, I wear a super high one on my face (fighting aging all the way!). And that of course combined with all the additional time we spend outside in the summer can create quite the complexion mismatch.

First I would suggest switching to a more sheer foundation formula (like Trish McEvoy's Even Skin, or Laura Mercier's Stick Foundation). Make sure to match your face, even if it is lighter than your body. Wearing a too dark foundation doesn't fool anyone, it just looks like you bought the wrong color. Then, after evening out your complexion, set your face with a little powder, and apply bronzer. When choosing a bronzer, pick a color that is most similar to the color you naturally tan (if you are fair, pick one with a little pink to it, if you are more olive, pick one with a more gold tone to it). With a soft fluffy brush, dust the bronzer on your forehead, working from the hairline down (as the sun would), the tops of your cheekbones, the bridge of your nose, and your chin. I also like to dust a little bronzer on my neck to make the transition from face to body a little more seamless.

Remember that bronzer and blush are not the same thing! So after bronzing, follow with a pop of a pretty pink or apricot blush right on the apples of your cheeks. That is going to give you that healthy glow. Now follow this with a little mascara and lip gloss and you are ready to go out and break some hearts!

Which goes first, concealer or foundation? It seems every thing I read tells me something different.

Foundation is designed to enhance your complexion, and minimize an uneven complexion. Concealer is designed to hide more prominent imperfections (blemishes, sun spots, broken capillaries).  Personally I apply foundation on the parts of my face that need evening out, typically the t-zone, and sometimes the cheeks. Then I will apply eye makeup, conceal under the eyes with a creamy concealer; always setting with loose powder immediately to inhibit creasing (no one wants more creases under their eyes). Then I will apply a drier textured concealer to any blemishes or other spots that I don’t want noticed. In my experience, when you apply concealer prior to foundation, most of it is wiped away when you apply the foundation. Also concealer should always be applied with a brush! Applying it with your fingers will spread bacteria, and apply too much product. The key to a beautiful complexion is, less is more.

 

 

 

 

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