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Skin Care Questions

I recently tried a new product, and had a reaction. How do I heal up fast? And how do I avoid having this happen again?

Anyone can have a skincare reaction. Even if you don't have sensitive skin. Personally I react to products containing Chamomile, an ingredient commonly used in sensitive skin lines. And yet I can use very high concentrations of glycolic acids with no reaction. So keep in mind, the product is probably not a bad product, just not the right one for you.

Now, let's talk about healing up your irritation. If your skin is mildly irritated (pink, maybe a breakout or two), first discontinue using the new product, as well as any "active" treatment products you are using (things containing acids, or retinoids). Steer clear of makeup for a few days (especially if your reaction is around your eyes, this may also be a good time to check in with your eye doctor too if that is the case). And use a VERY mild soap-free fragrance-free cleanser, and a light fragrance-free moisturizer and nothing else until the irritation subsides.

If the reaction is more severe, the first thing I would suggest is consult your dermatologist. Then same suggestions as above. You may also want to apply a hydrocortisone cream whilst healing.

Regardless, if your skin is irritated, avoid sun exposure at all costs. Sunscreen could irritate you more so time to bring out your prettiest hat and sunglasses. And no beach until your skin is happy again, and you can apply your regular sunscreen.

Once you are all healed, how do you avoid reactions in the future? First and foremost, never buy before you try a product. Nowadays all cosmetic retailers are quite generous with their sampling policies. Ask for a sample. Try the sample for a few days to make sure it is the right product for you. Once you know you love it, then you can buy it with peace of mind. This is also how one avoids returning products.

If your skin is VERY sensitive and reactive, I would STRONGLY suggest patch testing products before applying  them to your face. Place a dab of the new product on a bit of skin behind your ear (this way if you have a reaction it isn't on the center of your face). Do this for 3 days. If after 3 days you have no reaction, try it on your face. Also when you are exploring a new line of products, do not try the whole routine all at once. Try new product for a couple days; then another, then another. That way if you do have a reaction it is way easier to pinpoint the product that is the culprit.

This may sound uber-cautious, but this is your face we are talking about. And taking your time and not diving in is way easier than healing up hives.

Happy explorations! 

 

I have really bad acne! What do I do? And in the meantime, how do I cover it up?

Acne can be really tough. There are a lot of factors to it, lifestyle, genetics, nutrition. And what works for one person will not for someone else. On top of that, I find that a lot of times, long after the acne and the scars have healed, the person inside may not have healed emotionally from it. Especially if they were picked on.

So let's start with the basics. Acne is caused by bacteria. This doesn't mean that you are dirty, or that you use poor hygiene. Just that this specific bacteria is effecting your skin. With proper care, you can heal your acne.

To address acne, I encourage people to take a multifaceted approach. First look at your diet and lifestyle. What we pit IN our bodies shows up on our bodies. So if you eat a lot of fast food, processed foods, sugar, fried stuff,  caffeine, alcohol, you know the stuff that every doctor and nutritionist tells you to steer clear of, that is going to effect your skin (not to mention your health, your weight, your energy, your sleep, etc.). Also make sure that you are drinking lots of water (soda never counts, and neither does coffee). Take your vitamins! Most of us are not getting enough of the essential nutrients our body needs to function properly. Dr. Murad makes a really great supplement for acnegenic skin. And lastly eat your veggies, especially those dark leafy ones. In my personal experience, a lot of my clients find that when they cut out dairy, and eat organic foods, their skin improves substantially.

If you are a smoker, STOP. I could go on and on about the myriad of reasons to not smoke, but plain and simple smoking makes any skin condition worse. Period.

Exercise can help. It will get the blood flowing and help your body flush out toxins. Just make sure to wash your face before and after your workout. And never work out with makeup on. It is bad for your skin, and it is kind of silly.

Find a skincare regimen that works for you. This is sometimes easier said than done. But the main thing to keep in mind is that just because it works for someone else doesn't mean it will work for you. And vice versa. Murad, and Mario Badescu both make great acne products. So does Phytomer. Whatever system you decide to try, don't hop around. Try a system for at least a few weeks to let it actual do the work it needs to. Of course if your skin has a negative reaction (itching, burning, redness) discontinue use immediately.

This one sounds simple but it isn't, touch your face as little as possible. And NO PICKING!!!! Picking takes a blemish that could have healed and makes it a scar that is much harder to heal. Just keep reminding yourself to keep your hands off your face. And if you must touch, do so with clean hands. 

And of course talk to a dermatologist. They can prescribe some really powerful stuff. But please remember that doctors are human too, so if they suggest something that doesn't work, tell them so they can adjust accordingly. And don't be afraid to get a second opinion.

As far as covering acne, oil free and fragrance free products are best. I really like Laura Mercier's oil free foundation and secret camouflage. They can cover ANYTHING without clogging your pores. Whatever you use, apply it with clean tools every time. Wash your sponges and brushes in between every use so that you are not spreading that bacteria all over your face. And remember, never ever sleep with your makeup on!

Like I said before, there are a lot of considerations when it comes to acne. Do your best to not be discouraged. Try the simple inexpensive things first like changing your diet and drinking more water. That way at the very least you can be healthier. But also do your best to show yourself a lot of love. When we are dealing with a skin condition it is often easy to forget how beautiful we really are. Acne or not, love yourself and KNOW that you are beautiful.

I have the good fortune of having pretty good skin. It seems to be normal to dry. I almost never break out. But when I do get pimples, they stay under the surface forever. Sometimes they never come to a head. It can be sensitive to the touch, and feels so big that it seems like I have a small mountain forming under my skin. I put cream after cream on it. I wash with acne washes. What else can I do?

I get the same kind of little "sub-terranean" little buggers. They can be really frustrating.

First and foremost, DON'T EVER PICK!!!!!!

Next, it sounds like you are doing too much.  Dry skinned folks tend to have smaller pores. Which may be why your pimples rarely come to a head.

The acne washes, and creams work great for oily skin breakouts. But when your skin is on the dry side, they will dry out the surface of your skin even more. This will make it even easier to trap more bacteria under your skin and worsen the whole situation.

Stick with your gentle cleanser. Use a spot treatment no more than once or twice a day. Try to use one whose active ingredient is salicylic acid, and/or sulphur (stay away from benzoyl peroxide, it does more harm than good). I like Murad's Acne Spot Treatment, Phytomer's OligoPur Target Gel, and Mario Badescu's Drying Cream (the drying lotion is great for pimples that come to a head, but ones under the surface do better with the cream). Then at night, instead of a really rich night cream, I sleep with a hydrating gel mask like Laura Mericer's Hydra Soothing Gel Mask, or Nars' Aqua Gel Hydrator. These will keep your skin from drying out, but are light enough that they will let your skin breathe, and the pimple can heal. You may find that the next morning the pimple will be substantially smaller and less sensitive too.

Most importantly, drink lots of water, eat really good clean food (dark leafy greens are our best friends!), and DON'T TOUCH.

If after all that it is still driving you nuts, call your dermatologist. She can inject it and it will go away in a snap. But save the needles for the really important days (weddings, proms, high school reunion).

Hope this helps!

My friend has the most perfect skin. I tried using the same cream she uses and my skin still looks awful. Why does her skin look so good, and mine doesn’t? AND why did my grandma have the most beautiful skin and she just used soap and olive oil?

Skin is one of my favorite things in the world to talk about! And the questions posed are great ones.

Let’s start with the basics. Your skin is the largest organ your body has. We often forget that it is even part of our bodies, let a lone a vital organ. This is why when we are sick, the first place we see it is on our faces. When we eat badly our skin will often react first.

That being said, the first thing I would address before we even try to talk about skin care regimens, would be, what is your friends lifestyle like in comparison to yours?. Does she eat a much healthier diet than you? Do you have any health issues presently that could be affecting the appearance of your skin (all health issues show up on our skin in some way)? And does your friend have the same kind of skin as you? The answer to the last question is a sneaky one. Even if you both are dry and sensitive your skin will be different.

 Remember your skin cells are so unique scientists can identify you by a single cell (miracles of modern science); which means that everyone will react in a completely unique manner to products. This also means that even if you and your friend are both dry and sensitive, the same product can have completely different results for each of you.

A great example is acne. How many people struggle their whole adult lives with acne? And even with hundreds of products out there, prescription and non; there are still people who have yet to find relief. Sometimes a simple change in diet and their skin changes so rapidly it seems like magic.

One piece of advice I offer to all my clients is when addressing your skin, address the person inside it. Don’t buy yourself a thousand dollars worth of skincare and then feed your body takeout every night, and smoke a bunch of cigarettes. Even the best skincare in the world has an uphill battle with that. If you want to change your skin, start by feeding your body the fuel it needs to regenerate the cells that are being attacked by free radicals. I really recommend taking a look at Dr. Perricone’s books (we carry some of them in our Hingham, Andover, and New Canaan locations). He does a great job explaining how what we put in our body impacts the appearance of our complexions.

Now about Grandma; keep in mind our grandparents lived in a very different world than we do. When our grandparents were in their 20’s and 30’s, they weren’t eating partially hydrogenated anything. Their food never had high fructose corn syrup. Their vegetables and meats generally came from the local farm down the road not, the pesticide laden soils of the industrial farms of today. They had an ozone layer. Even their cigarettes had fewer chemicals. So basically it was a simpler time, right down to ingredients in their food. Which means taking care of their skin could be simpler too. We live in a much more polluted environment. Our foods, even with the greatest efforts often have numerous chemicals. There are more cars on the road than ever. The sun is stronger than ever. Basically our skin takes quite a beating. And so our skincare regimens have to be more potent to stand up to that beating.

If you really want to have amazing skin; feed your body the best food you can, wear sunscreen EVERY day, and find a regimen you can do every day. If you need help finding the perfect regimen, come into one of our stores, or schedule an appointment with me, and we will help you pick out a system that seems right. We can then give you samples so you can try the regimen first. Try it for a few days. If it isn’t perfect, don’t give up yet, come back and we will tweak it until we get the perfect system for you!

Everyone deserves to have beautiful skin! Everyone.

 

 

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